Paris Couture Fall 2016: Viktor & Rolf
When you run out of inspiration, look to your old work and reboot. That’s the way the entertainment industry has been going for decades now, especially in the movie houses, and also in the TV landscape. But so far the fashion industry has mostly avoided the trope. When they do indulge, it comes out as a collection like the one put out by Viktor & Rolf last week for their Fall Couture line.
At first glance Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren looked to have come up with something resembling a mashup more than a reboot. One part Mochino, with the random branding, one part Dickens with the tall collapsing top hats, and one half hippie rag rugs from the 1960s and 1970s. Exactly what in heaven’s name we were supposed to take away from this was not clear.
It wasn’t until the designers started pointing out the upcycled nature of everything that had gone into their work, and which of their former collections the scraps that made up what piece came from that all was explained. This was the ultimate mash-up of style and substance–the brand’s own style and substance at that. There were pieces from recently lines that stood out, like scraps of carpet, from when they made all their models be the red carpet. There were scraps from outfits they had debuted way back in 1993 when the brand first launched. They even pulled from their Monsieur Men label, which has been defunct for years.
In knitting, the odds and ends from skeins can be tied together to make novelty yarns that are then used to create new pieces. It’s rarer to see the textile world use the same trick, but in this day and age when “Reuse-Recycle-It” is stamped everywhere you look, perhaps V&R have come up with the newest trend of all–mashing up yourself.
The full collection is below.